Casco Antiguo / Santa Cruz
Alicante's old town climbs the slope of the Benacantil, the hill crowned by the Castillo de Santa Bárbara 167 metres above the sea. The neighbourhood began as the Muslim medina of Al-Laqant, organised around the fortress after the Pact of Teodomiro in the early 8th century, complete with its own market, aljama community and several mosques. By the time Christian forces retook the area in the 13th century, the street plan already looked much as it does today: narrow lanes, staircases and tight corners that follow the shape of the rock, then enclosed by a wall running down from the castle.
That medieval layout is what's known today as the Barrio de Santa Cruz — whitewashed houses, flower pots on balconies and façades, and streets that are, in practice, flights of steps. It's not an easy walk with a pushchair or wheelchair, given the steep grade, but anyone willing to climb slowly ends up at some corner with a view of the Mediterranean or the rooftops of the rest of the old town.
At the quarter's lower edge, built over the site of one of those medieval mosques, stands the Basílica de Santa María, Alicante's oldest church still in active use, raised in Valencian Gothic between the 14th and 16th centuries. A little further down, the Concatedral de San Nicolás de Bari has anchored the centre of the old town since the 17th century, its blue dome visible from much of the neighbourhood.
The castle can be reached on foot from Santa Cruz or by lift from the beach nearby, and from its ramparts the 360-degree view takes in the harbour and, on clear days, the island of Tabarca. Close by, the Parc de l'Ereta steps down the hillside in a series of terraces, its Mediterranean planting a change of pace from the white façades and fortress stone. Between castle, basilica and park, the old town packs nearly a thousand years of layered history into a handful of streets, all of them uphill.
What to see in Casco Antiguo / Santa Cruz
Worth seeing
- Castillo de Santa Bárbara
A fortress crowning Monte Benacantil since the 9th century, with sections added as late as the 18th. Reach it by lift from the nearby beach or on foot from Santa Cruz; from the ramparts, the 360-degree view takes in the harbour and, on clear days, the island of Tabarca.
- Concatedral de San Nicolás de Bari
Built between 1616 and 1662 on the site of the city's former main mosque, it has shared its episcopal seat with Orihuela's cathedral since 1959. Its blue dome, the work of Miguel del Real, is visible from much of the old town.
- Basílica de Santa María
Alicante's oldest church still in active use, built in Valencian Gothic between the 14th and 16th centuries on the site of another mosque. Its asymmetrical façade combines a 14th-century tower with one added in 1713 and a Baroque doorway.
- Barrio de Santa Cruz
The oldest part of the city, its steep streets often just flights of steps, whitewashed façades and flower pots on every balcony. Best explored on foot and without hurrying, letting the stairways lead the way uphill.
- Parc de l'Ereta
A park stepped across several terraces on the Benacantil hillside, between the old town and the castle. Its Mediterranean planting offers a green break and views over the rooftops and the sea.
Institutions
- MARQ — Museu Arqueològic Provincial d'Alacant
Housed in the former Hospital de San Juan de Dios, this provincial archaeology museum won the European Museum of the Year Award in 2004, a recognition shared in Spain only by museums such as the Guggenheim Bilbao.